Why do Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, and Alex Honnold encourage training for climbing outside?
You improve fastest by climbing as often as possible, ideally on outdoor rock. Here are specific reasons from each of these professionals:
1. Maximize the intensity
Chris Sharma has pushed the limits of climbing many times, lately sending a 5.15c at 41 years old. And he said 99% of his preparation was route climbing outdoors.
When you walk up to an intimidating rock climb, it challenges you to bring your A game. Outdoor climbing can turn the intensity knob up a notch to push your limits.
2. Movement engages all your senses.
You may have seen the guy at the gym who can do one armed pull-ups and front levers, but gets stumped by a V3 boulder problem.
Tommy Caldwell trains 4-5 days per week, getting out for trail runs and climbing on his home garage wall when it’s too snowy in Colorado to climb on real rock.
3. Develop your attention span and focus
Majestic nature and the power of awe acts as a reset button in the human brain. Climbing outdoors renews your attention span during the day so you can focus better.
Alex Honnold moved to Las Vegas because it was the best city for year-round outdoor climbing. He spends 3-4 days per week climbing outside, then does one indoor training session.
Nature as the Ultimate Training Ground
These pro climbers show a clear path to improvement through outdoor experience. Find your balance of intensity, engagement and focus, and you can sustain your climbing progress.
We face plenty of obstacles in getting to the crag and a balanced training regiment helps. I like the advice that even a crappy day outside builds motivation to train harder so you can send next time.
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